DAY 7: Sioux Falls to Rapid City, South Dakota, via Wall & Badlands #fiveexplore #roadtripusa2020

Day 7 – July 23rd

After some early morning grumbles of thunder, we gently arose from our slumber within the walls of our opulent Sioux Falls palace. A delightful breakfast offering was quickly scurried to our room like a squirrel gathering nuts. My baby squirrels quickly chomped through a range of eggs, waffles, cereals, fruit, and breakfast baps. We were ready for more swimming.

The facilities contained a 3ft deep pool and two slides designed for children. The kids were happy, but Sarah and I stared longingly at a Jacuzzi smugly occupied by parents who would not move if their lives depended on it. I allowed the children precisely twenty-seven minutes of jumping down slides then informed them our departure was imminent. The process of packing and repacking was ingrained by now, so we efficiently loaded our range of suitcases, food, electronics, and humans into the car ready to depart.

For the first time we were going to drive while staying in the same state. South Dakota is several hundred miles of hills, farms, grass, and lakes that spring up out of nowhere. There is also a strong fascination with dinosaurs, including multiple statues of Diplodocus and Tyrannosaurus Rex. I remembered that several dinosaurs have been dug up in South Dakota. There was also an 80mph speed limit on the highways which basically meant ‘go whatever speed you feel like’.

We briefly stopped at a gas station to fill up and it felt like a movie. Pick up trucks drove along gravel roads kicking up dust and long straw grass blew in the hot dry wind. Several signs above the garage advertised buffaloes and there was no facility to pay at the pump. I walked to a barred window and the garage owner asked, “Would ya like to filler up before payin’?” I returned to the car and followed some archaic instructions to work the petrol pump.

Entering the shop, I got chatting to the owner. Once he found out I was from the UK he asked how the Queen was doing. I stared at him for a moment and replied, “really good thanks”, as if I had been on a Zoom call with her last week. I purchased a range of American snacks and as I went to pay, he offered me freshly vacuum-packed buffalo meat. The children loved them so much, I returned to buy more packets. I was intoxicated by the wide variety of meat offerings on this trip, and rapidly losing connection with my vegetarian values.

We drove three hundred miles to our next stop, the small town of Wall, and specifically a shop called Wall Drug Store. As we ascended the continental plateau and entered the mountain time zone, the temperature climbed above 38c (100f). I asked Sarah to blare out the Stereophonics song ‘Dakota’ as we transported ourselves to a care-free youth. This lasted for two minutes when Alaina announced she had wet herself.

We parked the car at Wall where the wind felt like a hair dryer in your face. This was one of the weirdest places I have ever visited. A fake facade of cowboy shops lined the main street including coffee shops and an establishment called ‘Gold Diggers’. Entering the town there was a stand with flags and sparkles declaring undying love for Donald Trump. Next to it stood an 80ft plastic dinosaur.

However, the key attraction was Wall Drug Store. This garish monstrosity sprung up to greet visitors to the Badlands national park (the real reason we had driven here). Inside it was indescribably surreal. Interconnecting wood paneled shops sold various items ranging from drugs to tourist gifts, food, and drink. There were also strange life-sized plastic cowboys behind glass which suddenly came to life and sang country songs every few minutes.

Lining the walls were stuffed animals including rabbits with antlers stuck to them. I thought this extremely odd however a local casually referred to them as “jack rabbits”. As we entered the back yard stood in front of me was a 6ft high plastic jack rabbit which the kids climbed upon. Yes, my children sat upon a plastic 6ft rabbit with Antlers coming out of its head. You did not misread that sentence.

There were also full-sized stuffed bison at the back of the yard. Beyond were more shops and attractions including a large animated T-rex, which Alaina refused to go near. Lining the walls were a strange montage of old pictures celebrating a shared history of local native Americans alongside white landowners who undoubtedly made their life a misery.

As quickly as possible I extracted my family from this dystopian tourist trap and escorted them back to the car. We cleaned the windscreen of insects for the third time that day and departed for Badlands National Park. For those of you unaware, Badlands is where flat farm fields give way to a dramatic back drop of rocks, roads, mountains, and ridges. The colours range from grey to pink to yellow. In the distance huge rain clouds bloom in the sky. This kaleidoscope of clouds, grass and rock created a uniquely memorable experience.

The kids were mostly disinterested, and Sarah “strongly encouraged” them to get out of the car and make a halfhearted effort to climb some rocks while populating timeless family photos.

Like an overgrown child I insisted we exited on a gravel backroad south of Badlands. As the dust kicked up behind our car, I imagined myself as a Hollywood star speeding along the great American landscape. Sarah filmed buffaloes and I almost ran over what I believed to be an Armadillo. Route 44 took us directly into Rapid City and on the last leg I pulled in for one last gas stop. I got out of the car and suddenly saw a police officer asking for my license. He politely asked me to sit in his car while he informed me the speed limit was 45mph not 80mph. Oops.

As he asked questions, I was distinctly aware this was not COVID friendly. Neither of us wore a mask. A large Alsatian wandered around menacingly in the back, so I decided COVID could wait. At the end of my interrogation I was handed a written warning (without fine) and he gifted me three photos of his dog to give to my daughters. I exited the car with a mixture of relief, confusion, and concern.

As the sun kissed the horizon, we arrived at our hotel for the night. It was brand new but despite the ultra-modern decor we were unable to get working Wi-Fi for most of the evening. Fortunately, the shop over the road sold alcohol. This was no help for my children, but by that point I was busy writing this blog drinking beer. Until tomorrow…

In addition to this daily blog, you can check out our Instagram feed for more photos and short posts documenting our 2020 road trip @fiveexplore