New England USA Mini Road Trip 2020 - Day 3 - Maine #fiveexplore #newenglandroadtripusa2020

DAY 3: Sunday 11th October 2020

Today is lobster day. Lyra was strangely compliant in getting ready. I felt confused as all three children stood ready to go. On time. For Alaina there was the promise of a playground. Zaria was normally on time. And for Lyra this was lobster day.

The temperature had plunged several degrees overnight, so we dusted off our coats and stepped into the cold morning air. Suddenly it felt like October. We joined route one which is the coastal route that winds north through Maine. For British readers I had heard Maine described as the Cornwall of America. It is also the place where the sun rises first over this country. Many hikers climb hills and mountains to catch the first glimpse of light over the largest economy in the world.

If you look at a map the coastline of Maine is a jagged collection of islands, inlets, and lakes. There is no real coastline, instead various bodies of water constantly appear and disappear as you wind through the forests. I imagine Maine more like Norway, Canada, or Iceland. Forests, lakes, boats, bridges, mountains, harbours, and quaint towns create a dish of natural wonder. Like a chef sprinkling the perfect denouement, every tree created a corridor of colour. Reds, orange, browns, yellow, luminous greens, and every shade in between. This was the flush of fall.

Our first stop was the desert of Maine. A strange geological quirk has created an area of sand in a section of forest near Portland. This attraction had recently fallen into new ownership and it would be sage to give it a miss. After a picture under the fake camel and a few minutes in the wooden playground we were ready to depart.

We travelled further up the coastal route, then turned towards Boothbay. In a few moments Boothbay Lobster Wharf would be open for business. The excitement was palpable. This establishment served a variety of freshly caught seafood with the main(e) attraction being lobster. A heavily tattooed lady allowed us to hold and look over a variety of freshly caught live crustaceans. Interesting fact - soft shelled smaller lobsters taste better than their larger cousins. Size isn’t everything.

Once the choice was made the lobsters were unceremoniously thrown into a boiling tub. They quickly turn that famous red colour and I bought them to the table. We sat outside in the fall sunshine. The harbour sat behind us and a middle-aged band churned out old rock’n’roll hits. With a local beer by my side this felt like one of the quintessential global culinary experiences (assuming you like lobster).

Like a dutiful father I excavated Lyra’s meat first before starting on my own. The barman assisted me in finding the quickest way to disseminate the lobster. Lyra quickly finished her meal and then complained about the noise of the band, so loudly that she drowned out the music. With bated breath I asked her for feedback on her meal. This was the moment, the reason, the purpose of our trip. “It was OK. I prefer going to the Red Lobster restaurant.”

Personally, I thought it was wonderful. Corn, baked potatoes, and lashings of greasy butter accompanied sweet fresh lobster meat that melted in your mouth. My only regret is that we didn’t have a second order of fresh mussels. For good measure I hoovered up any remaining meat untouched by the children.

We returned to the car and Lyra had her second meltdown of the day. I erroneously revealed that we were next visiting a mountain that overlooked Maine. Apparently, mountains were strictly off limit as they were considered unsafe. I tried to reassure her that it was just a hill.

We headed further north on route one and round the coast to Camden, next to Camden state park. Overlooking this area is Mount Battie. We quickly climbed 800ft in the car (a simple journey after the rigours of the Rockies) and exited the parking lot to a panoramic view of Maine. The scene was truly breathtaking. The fall trees beneath us glowed every colour of autumn. Camden harbour was resplendent with church spires, shops, and boats. Across the dark blue water various islands rose from the sea, and the twin peaks of Arcadia national park loomed on the horizon. It was simply unique.

If you are unable to make it further north, then this point midway between Portland and Arcadia is a jewel in the crown. Lyra stood upon the edge of the cliff and looked out across the vista. Sarah screamed for her to move away from the edge. The previous concern about mountains had dissipated and she looked insulted that she could not indulge further. “It’s only a hill Mum!”

We finished the day with a two-hour journey back to Portland and a short walk in the old town. Never was a city more aptly named. Endless seafood restaurants, boats, piers, and seagulls floated on the purple water as the sun set behind us. The girls requested more seafood, but I had eaten my own body weight in lobster over the last 24 hours.

We returned to the hotel for a consolation swim after a day indulging in activities of lesser interest to the children.

Tomorrow we visit the last states of New England - New Hampshire and Vermont. What could possibly supersede this?

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